Americas

Hot Springs Cove

The water from the hot springs poured over the ledge like a waterfall. I sat underneath and let the warm water wash away the grime from four days of paddling. But I was not alone.

This place is a strange contradiction of pristine, rugged coast wilderness and popular, yet hard to get to, busy tourist spot. It took me three days to paddle here from the closest town, Tofino. Tourists can take a two hour high-speed boat ride, or a 30 minute float plane ride; A day trip- Not 3!  For anyone, it’s a commitment just to get to Tofino – it’s not that easy to get to this remote area of West Vancouver Island. I forgot to mention, there is a two mile hike to the hot spring.

Hot Springs Cove with hot spring pools hidden in the rocky shore.

Hot Springs Cove with hot spring pools hidden in the rocky shore.

But it’s worth it- the rugged beauty of this place is breathtaking. The spring starts in the forest and flows into a steaming creek that winds around old growth cedar trees. It then exits the forest and flows over jet-black rocks into a long narrow crevasse, where the water becomes waist deep. Numerous pools of varying sizes and temperatures lead down to the ocean, with the cooler pools closest to the open water. Uniquely stunning; like no place I have seen before.

Hot spring stream through the forest

Hot spring stream through the forest

I had reached the springs early in the morning and it was a shock to find dozens of people from all over the world, after hardly seeing anyone for days. There were people everywhere in all the small spring pools. I was worried about stepping on feet as I maneuvered around the spring.

Spring waterfall

Spring waterfall

When I am on my solo kayak trips, it’s my mission to get as far away from civilization as possible, I hope to see no-one. So when I find a truly remote, unspoiled, wild place filled with people it’s a little disappointing. But when you see the unique beauty of Hot Springs Cove, you understand why so many people make the pilgrimage.

It was all good, after not speaking to anyone all week, It was nice to have a little chat. But before long, I retreated back to the the woods, alone.

Categories: Clayoquot Sound, BC - August 2016 | Tags: , , , , , | 1 Comment

Barge

When I pushed off and the kayak slid into the water I was hoping she wouldn’t sink on the spot. It was overloaded with food and equipment for my ten day trip though Clayoquot Sound.

My kayak is seventeen feet long, with two large bulkheads in the bow and stern. These were fully packed and I had the overflow in the cockpit, but at least I didn’t have to lash anything to the deck.

I estimated I had 80 pounds of equipment stuffed in every nook and cranny of my boat; food for ten plus days, camping and cooking equipment, clothing, safety and paddle equipment. Plus a few luxuries, including some sneaky beers tucked away. One thing that saved me; I didn’t need to bring much water as there were plenty of streams along my route.

 

First camp

Sunset at first camp

I held my breath as I launched into the cold Pacific. The waterline was high but not dangerous. She handled like a barge, she was running slow and sluggish, went through waves instead of bobbing over them. But the weight distribution was good and she seemed seaworthy enough to make it to the first camp. I swung the bow north and headed off on my adventure. Continue reading

Categories: Clayoquot Sound, BC - August 2016 | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Back to my late ways

 

Over the past few years I had got better about getting to the kayak launch site at a reasonable time. This trip, I reverted to my old ways, arriving in the middle of the night before a early launch.

It’s a long trip to Clayoquot sound, BC. with a border crossing and a ferry trip, so lots of opportunity to get delayed. It should take 8 hours if everything went right; If things didn’t go right, it could take hours more. My first problem is getting out of the house. Wrapping up work, packing last minute things, triple-checking I have everything. I don’t hit the road until 1:30pm.

Not far out of town, I’m in stop-and-go traffic caused by a accident, not the best start. That clears up but just half an hour later a fatal accident closes down the interstate. So I take the back roads through the countryside to a small border crossing way off my original route. Finally over the border and into Canada, and it’s taken two hours longer than it should have.

I catch the 8:15pm ferry over to Vancouver Island; it’s a two hour crossing with a three hour drive after that. Whatever; I’m resigned to the fact that I’m way behind schedule. I go up to the top deck and take a seat. It’s a beautiful twilight, with a deep red sunset over the Straight of Georga. At this point I am good, whenever I’m on this ferry it means vacation, plus the food is good and I am starving.

Next up is a long, windy road through an endless, evergreen forest, over the hills to the rugged coast, through the darkness. Finally I arrive, find a parking lot near the beach, pull out my sleeping bag, recline the seat and try to get some sleep. It is 1:30am. and I have to be awake at 6:30am.

Launch, finally

Finally launching, Tofino

Driving late and sleeping in the car is something I’ve done for years. It’s not ideal, but adrenaline makes up for the lack of sleep. I was fine in the morning but would pay for it later in the trip.

It feels like a tradition for me showing up in the middle of the night and sleeping in the car. But it’s a crappy tradition, one I wish I could kick.

Categories: Clayoquot Sound, BC - August 2016 | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Griffey

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I moved to Seattle in 1994 when Ken Griffey Jr. was in the prime of his career; I often went to see him and the Mariners play at the KingDome. I watched in amazement at Griffey’s sweet swing, his reckless defense and the Mariner’s historic playoff run in 1995. Whenever I see him or highlights from his old days, it brings me back to my early years in Seattle.

I have always wanted to visit The Baseball Hall of Fame. So when Griffey got voted in this year, in his first year of eligibility and receiving the most votes ever for a player inducted to The Hall, it seemed like the perfect time to make the pilgrimage to Cooperstown, NY.

We flew into NYC and drove through the back roads of upstate New York, through the beautiful Catskills, past picturesque old farming towns to our remote destination. We arrived on Main Street just in time for the parade of Hall of Fame Legends. The normally sleepy town was overflowing with rabid baseball fans watching a strange parade of baseball players in the back of pick-up trucks rolling down the street.

Pedro, Pedro !!

Pedro, Pedro !!

There were baseball fans from around the country and every team was represented. There was no animosity, Yankees and Red Sox fans side by side, chatting and watching the parade. It was a celebration of baseball; we were in Cooperstown and everyone was a winner.

 

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Induction

The following morning we laid down a blanket on the field to watch the Induction Ceremony with 50,000 of our fellow fans. The sun was out in full force, it was over 90 degrees and humid. But that was of no concern; we were there!

As they played highlights of The Kid’s career on the big screen, I could remember them all. Goosebumps formed, it was as if I was back in Seattle in twenty years ago. Griffey started his speech and immediately choked up. As tears tears flowed down his face, sweat poured down mine. It was amazing to see the usually care-free Griffey so emotional.

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I laid back in the grass and listened to him speak, the intense sun causing me to hallucinate. I drifted back to the days of listening to Dave Niehaus calling the game on the crackling radio in my 1984 Tercel; Playing pool and watching the Mariner’s game at the Comet Tavern. Wherever you were, whatever you were doing, everything came to a pause when Griffey came to bat. Nothing else mattered and he proved anything was possible.

Categories: Cooperstown, NY - July 2016 | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Canada Day

Capital building BC

BC Parliament building

We were in Victoria BC for my friend’s surprise birthday party, which happened to be on Canada Day. On July 1 1870, Canada and England made a gentleman’s agreement and parted ways and what we know now as Canada emerged. It wasn’t celebrated at first, but now it is almost as popular with Canadians as the NHL Finals as a Holiday; there were fireworks over the harbor and so the streets were filled with celebrating Canucks.

We passed a local bar I vaguely remembered, Big Bad Johns, and had some time before the party, so we stopped in for a refreshment. The dingy, dark wood-paneled bar had a floor covered with peanut shells, bras hanging from the ceiling signed by their previous owners and bar stools filled with hardened drinkers. Craft cocktails here? Jack and coke.

The three women sitting next to us were getting in the spirit.

Big Bad Johns

An old woman slowly walked through the bar with a white cane, tapping it back and forth in front of her. I didn’t think much of it. Some time later, classic rock came on the jukebox and the blind women wandered by with a shaggy, hobo-chic man. She suddenly grabbed him by the hand and started dancing furiously. Drunken patrons cheered and clapped. Screeching at top volume, she pulled and spun the stumbling man. I wondered where the cane went.

A loud man with long greasy hair was at the bar cutting the sleeves off a bar T-shirt. He then took off his own CBGB shirt and gave it to a random women standing next to him. I (and she) had no clue what was going on there, but an unfortunate thing; he forgot to pull up his pants. One of those things, once you see it, you can’t un-see it.

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When it was time to leave for the party, I was reluctant; This was the kind of place where you have no idea what was going to happen next. The night was young and I think the craziness had only just begun; The one thing in common with all the riff-raff in this bar: It was Canada Day and they were ready to party.

Victoria harbor.

Victoria harbor.

Categories: Victoria, BC- July 2016 | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Happy Nude Year!

Chicago hotel. Early New Year’s Day 2016

I woke up in the middle of the night and had to take a pee, bad. It was pitch dark, I rolled out of bed and groped for the bathroom door. Finding it, I pulled the handle and opened the door. A blinding light hit me, so I closed my eyes and walked in thinking, “why did I leave the light on in the bathroom?” The door shut behind me as I slowly opened my eyes.

What I saw was not what I expected; no toilet, no shower, no sink, but I was in a hallway? As the fog in my head cleared, I realized that I had opened the wrong door and had walked out into the hallway of the hotel. I quickly grabbed the room door, locked.

OK, I just locked myself out of my hotel room in the middle of the night. Not a big deal. Except for the fact that I was buck-ass naked and I could hear the elevator coming up from the lobby. A bell rang as it passed a floor. I heard two bells and we were on the third floor. Immediately, it all became crystal clear.

I started pounding on the door frantically, “Helen let me in!!”

A sleepy voice from inside “Chris?  Is that you? What are you doing outside?” I heard the third elevator bell ring.  “Just let me in quick!” The elevator doors opened around the corner down the hall. “H! Let me in – hurry!” Voices were approaching. Just in the nick of time, the room door opened and I ran in, greeted by “What is going on?”

Confused and clueless I answered. “I really don’t know what just happened but I was out in the hallway naked.” As Helen tucked back into bed I heard the all too familiar disapproving grunt. A simple grunt that speaks volumes = you’re an idiot, I’m too tired to deal, I don’t want to know what just happened.
When I woke up on New Year’s Day, I asked the question I already knew the answer to. “I really hope I was dreaming…but did I lock myself out of the room naked?” Helen “It was not a dream”

Not a dream

Not a dream

 

Categories: Chicago, IL - January 2016 | Tags: , , | 3 Comments

Extraterrestrial vacation

 

We arrived in town late in the afternoon. Main Street was closed; lined with stands selling T-shirts and funnel cake, carnival rides and a stage at the end of the street, loud with country bands. It felt like a small town 4th of July celebration…

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…With one big difference; the overlying alien theme: alien street lamps, alien beer, millions of alien T-shirts. We were at the twentieth annual UFO Festival in Roswell, New Mexico.

A strange town, a strange festival, in the middle of the desert.

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It has been 62 years since a flying saucer crashed on a remote farm outside Rowell. Aliens were taken from the crash site to the local Air Force, or so they say. Regardless of the validity of this incident, the town embraced this supposed invasion and ran with it; hosting an annual alien festival where everyone is a legal alien.

Miss Roswell

Miss Roswell

We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering through the usually sleepy town, transformed into an alien Disney land. We met Miss Roswell and her small dog.  We drank a glass of Galactic Cabernet wine. And my favorite, visited The Prepper Stop; a survivalist booth selling everything you need for the upcoming apocalypse. I love talking to these doomsday believers. We chatted about gravity water purification systems and gas masks, which he was already sold out of, his biggest seller.

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Doomsday Supermarket.

We watched the alien parade that evening. It was short and sad, a few aliens on strange bikes, a few half dressed-up kids. I thought nothing could save this poor parade.

Until a small beat-up pick-up truck passed by. In the back were three people dressed as aliens, one with a mega-phone, the other two dancing about with their arms raised. As they passed, I realized he was reciting bible verses full volume. It became apparent that he was a reverend dressed up as an alien preaching the virtues of The Lord to confused onlookers. But of course.

Alien Preacher

The following day was the Fourth of July and our eleventh wedding anniversary. So we got up early to go to the Alien Pet Costume Contest. Isn’t that what everyone does on their wedding anniversary? I wasn’t that keen and was protesting hard, but to no avail. We were going.

goat-saucer

Goat-saucer

It wasn’t even noon yet, but it was hot. Everyone was in shady spots; under umbrellas, under trees. Everyone but the poor animals dressed in ridiculous outfits. It was mostly little dogs, but there were also a few unhappy cats in costumes, on leashes. There were also a painted pair of goats dressed as flying saucers prancing across the blazing hot asphalt.

A little black mutt dressed as the Marvin the Martian from Loony Tunes got the gold. The whole thing was rigged! The goats should have won, obviously.

The winner

The winner!

We left Roswell with a million photos, multiple alien t-shirts and a new understanding of alien probes and abductions. I love a good conspiracy theory, especially one involving government cover-ups and aliens. I’m not sure about the Roswell incident. But I do look at the night sky a little differently now.

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Categories: New Mexico- July 2015 | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Abductee

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I overhear a tall man in a cowboy hat; “I was ok when they were abducting me. But when they started taking my children and grandchildren, it was war!” And he said it with a straight face.

He and the other extra-terrestrial experts have set up tables at the UFO Museum.  All had books, photos and other alien paraphernalia; displaying the ‘real truth’ about aliens. We struck up a conversation with Darrel Sims, with his big mustache and southern charm.

Apparently he has been abducted many times since childhood and is a Texan; larger than life, cowboy boots, Wrangler jeans, ex-special forces and a bona-fide alien expert.

Darrel has published two books; one on the history of alien implants, and the other, his life-long battle with extra-terrestrial abductions.  He also has a DVD showing a sonogram of a pregnant women that ‘proved’ she was carrying an alien fetus. Tempting. But we went with  ‘Alien Hunter’, the definitive guide on alien abduction and how to fight back.  He signed the book for us and was more than willing to take a photo with me.

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Darrel Sims – Alien Hunter

We had wanted to see one speaker at the festival and I think we just found him. We were in luck, later that day Darrel had an hour-long lecture about UFO symbolism in the drawings of children who have been abducted by UFOs.

We were in.

We sat on folded chairs as Darrel projected kid’s drawings of their family and homes onto the wall. He had a red laser pointer to highlight the details, while explaining their hidden meaning and the UFO symbolism.  For example, if the family was looking right, if the window was open on the house, these were clues of possible alien intervention in this child ‘s life.

It was all making sense to me now…

Actually it didn’t make any sense at all.

Speaking the truth.

Darrel speaking the truth

And then he started talking about owls.

A red dot from his pointer highlighted a stick figure owl with big eyes.  He paused dramatically, and then, in a hushed tone; “look here in the tree….an owl ….I could go on for hours about owls and aliens, I actually teach university level classes on owl UFO symbolism.” And then he did go on forever about the fantastical correlation between drawing an owl and being abducted by aliens.

I snorted. He was losing me, or he was losing it.

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I believe.

But Darrel did have a cult of personality, memorizing, with his southern Texas drawl and laser pointer and if you focused hard enough, it might just be possible.  I looked around the room of about two dozen attendees, most were rolling their eyes, but there were some true believers intently listening, focused on Darrel and his owls.

I do believe somewhere out there in this vast universe there must be other life forms. And I too was getting hypnotized as he rambled on; I started to see the light.

I snapped to; the light? It was coming from the open door;  so we left.

 

Categories: New Mexico- July 2015 | Tags: , | Leave a comment

Camping on the Moon.

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We hiked up and over the gypsum sand dunes that stretched for as far as you could see. It looked like the moon with little vegetation, and pure white lizards skittering about.

But while it may have looked like the moon, it felt like the face of the sun. It was only 10 am as we were hiking with all our gear to a backcountry campsite and the temperature was already above 100 degrees; the sweat was pouring from my brow. We were in White Sands National Park, New Mexico, camping in the dunes under a full moon. If we didn’t succumb to heat stroke first.

Camp

Camp

Finally after a few, very hot, long miles, we found the campsite.  Withering under the relentless sun, I was chugged down water as fast as I was sweating it out. We put up the tent in record time and retreated back to the air-conditioned car.

On summer full moon nights, The National Park puts on open air concerts. Tonight was a cello quartet playing as the sun set and the moon rose; huge and golden over the pure white sand. Parents laid down blankets as kids ran up and tumbled down the dunes.

Moon rise

Moon rise

The musicians weren’t your traditional string quartet, they played rock covers; Beatles, Nirvana and Black Keys rather than Beethoven. An unusual band in a unusual setting.

As the moon rose high in the sky it lit up the white landscape like daylight; The desert landscape looked like a faded black and white picture.

chelo quartet

Cello quartet

Finally the show ended and we hiked back to camp; There was no trail over the dunes, just a post every so often to show the way. Even with the strong moonlight, It was hard to route- find; All dunes look the same at night. We zig-zagged our way back to the campsite.

Before we crawled in the tent to sleep, we shared the final beer laying on our backs in the sand, staring at a sky filled with stars.

All too soon, we reluctantly rolled out of our tent to catch sunrise; but at least it was cooler pre-dawn; the coolest we had been since arriving in New Mexico. It was eerily quiet, no wind, no movement on the desolate landscape.

As the sun rose orange through the wispy clouds in the east, the moon set in the west; they were identical, a mirror image.

Sunrise

Sunrise

Later that day we had to try the popular White Sands sport of sand-sledding: sliding down the gypsum dunes on a plastic saucer. It’s fun, although the hike up steep dunes in the heat can kill you!

I wouldn’t call the ride down fast; it’s slow motion sledding. We waxed the bottom of the sled for more speed. It didn’t help; I even managed to fall off in slow motion.

Dune sledding

Dune sledding

We broke camp and left driving through the lunar landscape, sand blowing across the road. Every living thing was ducking for cover in the extreme heat. An inhospitable world.  It is easy to see why NASA used White Sands to train Astronauts for Apollo missions, it is a different planet.

 

Categories: New Mexico- July 2015 | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Bird-nado!

Costa Rica is nirvana for birders. 894 bird species have been recorded there and it’s a major fly-way for migration….blah…blah…blah…OK, so I’ll stop boring you with the details. You would probably rather go to the dentist than listen to me talk about birds….so here are some pictures.

Scarlet Macaw

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Emerald Toucanet

muk muk

Blue-crowned Motmot

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Hummingbird

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Resplendent Quetzal

fishing pelicans.

Pelicans fishing

Me looking for birds. H bored

Me looking for birds. H trying not to look bored.

Of the 894, we managed to spot 52 new birds. Yet one we really searched for eluded us; the infamous Fruit Loops spokes-bird. We never saw a Toucan.

Categories: Costa Rica - February 2015 | Tags: , | 2 Comments

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